How to Determine Your Natural Hair Type (2024)

I spent nearly a decade perfecting my curly hair routine. I’ve done hours of research, purchased countless natural hair products and watched dozens of YouTube videos all in hopes of understanding my God-given spirals. And the thing is, despite what you may believe, every curl is different. From type 2 wavy to 3C corkscrews and 4A coils, there are so many different natural hair patterns it can be quite difficult to determine which style you have and what products to use. That’s where we come in. We tapped Devachan curl expert, Nicolle Lemonds, to get the scoop on the various natural hair types so you can step away informed.

First of all, what exactly is a curl pattern?

Your curl shape depends on the shape of the hair follicle. The more round the hair follicle is, the straighter your strands will be. And the flatter the follicle is, the curlier your hair will be. To make things easier to understand, you’ll often hear experts categorize curls by the shape and how the hair bends with 1 being super-straight to 4 being tightly coiled (more on that below). As you learn to identify your curl pattern, you’ll better understand how to style, treat, and protect your curls.

And for the record, it’s totally normal to have more than one curl type. The combination can be due to genetics or caused by over-processing, color treatments, heat-styling, and other damage caused to the hair strand. Your pattern may also change depending on how long you’ve sported natural tresses. Don’t fret if you see some curls that are straggly and semi-straight. “If you’re transitioning to natural, you may only see your true curl pattern at the root where your new growth is,” Lemonds says.

How do I find my natural curl pattern?

Start with wet hair. If your hair is wavy, it will appear straight when wet and will shrink about 10 percent in length as it dries. If it falls in the curly category, it will look wavy when it's wet and it'll shrink about 25 percent in length when it's dry. And if you have coily strands, you will have tight coils when wet and you can expect major shrinkage—as much as 50 percent—when your strands dry. Once you’ve identified which of the three main categories your hair falls into, you can dive deeper into the subcategories.

Type 2-Wavy

There are three types of waves that range from a slight bump to a very visible S-pattern throughout your strands. Folks with wavy hair generally use lightweight products that hydrate, boost and hold their waves in place. Think mousse, foam, lightweight gels, and serums.

2A

If you have hair that has a slight bend, but still lays pretty close to the head, you’d identify as 2A. “This type of wave can be easily manipulated to straight or given more wave with the proper product,” says Lemonds. She adds that many people with type 2A may not even know they have wavy hair as the slight bump is often weighed down. To style your delicate curls, she suggests using a curl amplifier or volumizing product and drying with a diffuser to keep the wave intact. Here are some of our top picks.

2B

Similar to 2A strands, this curl pattern lays closely to the head, but this time you’ll see a consistent S-shaped pattern throughout the hair. Lemonds suggests using lightweight products to add definition, like Briogeo Curl Charisma Frizz Control Gel for a soft, touchable hold.

2C

This hair type is the waviest in the category and the S-shaped pattern is very apparent and may start closer to the scalp. Women with 2C strands may also find that the large waves can appear as ringlets throughout their head, too. For this curl pattern, try choosing a product with light hold and frizz-protection like Aveda’s Be Curly Curl Enhancer.

Type 3-Curly

Curly hair can range from loose ringlets to tight spirals. According to Lemonds, it tends to be drier than wavy hair and often needs heavier products that hydrate and hold the curls in place. “If you have curly hair, I suggest washing no more than twice a week to ensure your hair retains its moisture levels,” Lemonds says. She also suggests deep conditioning every fourth or fifth wash so strands don’t get frizzy and parched. Even though moisture is key to treating and styling type 3 curls, try to avoid heavy products that can weigh them down.

3A

This curl type looks wavy when wet, but springs into curls as it dries. Lemonds compares this size curl to sidewalk chalk. Your curls can get weighed down if you use heavy products, so we suggest avoiding anything that has butter in the name. And whatever styling product you pick, don’t overdo it. One of our favorite stylers for 3A hair is the SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie.

3B

Lemonds compares this curl shape to the size of a Sharpie. Tighter than 3A curls, but still relatively large ringlets, 3B curls tend to get dry quickly and often need a hold product to stay in place in-between washes. We recommend a styling cream for moisture, followed by a defining gel like the Ouidad Advanced Climate Control Heat & Humidity Gel.

3C

You guessed it, 3C curls are often referred to as corkscrews and they are the size of a pencil. For this curl type, Lemonds suggests using more cream than gel when styling and refreshing with conditioner and water as needed. We love the Ouai Curl Conditioner because it’s super hydrating and makes hair soft and manageable post-wash.

Type 4-Coily

Coily or kinky hair is the tightest amongst the curl types with curls springing straight from the scalp. With this pattern, keeping your curls moisturized is key. And opt for styling methods that stretch the curl to avoid significant shrinkage. Lemonds recommends laying on the conditioner thick and washing your type 4 coils a maximum of once a week to lock moisture in.

4A

Similar to 3C, this curl pattern looks like a corkscrew, but it's about the size of a chopstick. Think super tight coil. You’ll want to focus on hydration and fighting frizz so we suggest a high-hold gel like Oribe Curl Gloss that will lock-in your curl pattern without drying out strands.

4B

4B strands are so tight that they can sometimes be hard to see curl definition. “They're more of a zigzag and need a product to weigh down the curl to get more length,” Lemonds says. Because the hair is so dense, Lemonds recommends using a shine spray. The Drybar Sparkling Soda Shine Mist smells great, adds major sheen, and tames flyaways.

4C

This is the tightest of all curls which makes the pattern difficult to see. This coil doesn’t easily retain moisture or absorb product so applying too much can leave a white, gritty film. For this texture, we recommend a heavy styling cream that’s full of hydrating ingredients like As I Am Double Butter Rich Daily Moisturizer and finishing with a shine spray or oil.

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